(Korea) The Last Destination of My World Tour: Spending Autumn, Winter, Spring, and Summer in Korea

Autumn – I never realized how beautiful Korea was before.

After a 24-hour ferry ride from Vladivostok, Russia, I returned to South Korea via Donghae Port for the first time in 12 years. The reason I hadn’t been able to return all this time was because I had a strong desire to come back by land. In the end, I gave up that dream and decided to wrap up by visiting the Amnok River, Mount Paektu, and the Tumen River, Korean unification symbols at North Korean-Chinese border before returning.
Had I not held onto that dream of returning by land, I might’ve visited Korea in between, and the world trip would’ve ended in about six or seven years. But that dream was also part of my journey. Saying “if not for that dream” would be denying those years, so even though it didn’t work out, I accept it as part of my travels and return to Korea.
I briefly woke up in the early morning on the ferry and thought, “I’m finally going home.” My heart trembled. While having breakfast, I saw Korean land through the window. The thought, “I’ve really arrived in Korea,” made my heart race with excitement. As I got closer to land, the first thing that came into view was the mountains, and the scenery looked quite majestic.

During my 12 years of travel, the most tense moments were always at immigration checkpoints. But for the first time, I passed through immigration without tension. That must be the sense of security that only one’s home country can provide.

The final leg of my world trip was a journey through South Korea. I wanted to finish it before winter arrived, so I planned to spend two months traveling around South Korea to complete my world tour.

I arrived during the Chuseok holidays, so I left my luggage and bicycle at some follower’s house in Donghae and took a bus back to home to spend a week with my family. As I looked out the window, the scenery of South Korea was so beautiful that I was deeply moved. The sky was clear and blue, and the mountains were green. At a bus rest stop, I bought a jar of banana milk, which I loved, and it made me feel so excited and happy to back to South Korea

I originally lived in Anyang, but my family had moved to Incheon, so I felt like I was going to a new place rather than returning home. I spent time with friends and family at Chuseok holidays

The first thing I had to do after arriving in South Korea was to get a South Korean phone number. When traveling abroad, I got a new SIM card right after arriving in each country, but in South Korea, it took a week to activate it. Foreigners can activate a number by showing their passport, but South Koreans need to go through an identity check via phone. They said they wouldn’t process it during Chuseok or the weekend, and they would randomly call, so I had to wait. However, there was no way to make a new phone number without having the phone number because I can only have an identity check via phone. Fortunately, I could use my family’s number, but for those without family, getting a number seemed impossible. Then they can only have the phone number with a 2-3 year contract and you have to pay extra if you break the contract.
As soon as I arrived in South Korea, I could feel firsthand the reasons why the country’s IT industry has not expanded overseas and remained local, due to various restrictions. The policy in South Korea is like if you don’t have a South Korean phone number, you’re not treated as a South Korean. Because of this, I had to give up on many Korean websites to join. After finally activating my South Korean number, I felt like a real South Korean again. Once I was officially a South Korean, I had to do many things to join and open this and that.

After that, I took the bus back to Donghae. Having returned to South Korea after 13 years, I often observed the country through the eyes of an outsider. In Korean restaurants, spoons and chopsticks come from under the table. At first, I didn’t know this and had to ask the staff, but later on, whenever I sat down at a restaurant, my hand automatically reached below the table. Most restaurants also give out chili peppers, but they were so spicy that I gave up after a few attempts, only eating a little at the end.
One thing that surprised me was that customers say, “Thank you, I ate well” when leaving the restaurant, even though they paid for the meal. I thought “I ate well” is the term you only said at home to your parents. It seems I totally forgot abouth some Korean manners. So, I felt South Koreans were incredibly polite. At first, I felt awkward saying “I ate well” but eventually, it became a habit, and I naturally said it at the restaurant. Later, I also started saying “Wishing you many sales” to the owner.
The most shocking thing in Korean restaurants was the side dishes! South Korea is the only country where side dishes are served for free, and they even offer unlimited refills! Long live South Korea! I really enjoyed the free side dishes after arriving in South Korea. (Even Korean restaurants abroad charge for side dishes.)

//1 USD is feel like 1,000 won. But due to low exchange rate, 1 USD is 1,400won in real//
When I left Korea in 2010, most restaurant meals were priced around 4,000 to 5,000 won($3.5 in Real//$4~5 feel like) but now they are mostly 9,000 to 10,000 won ($6 in Real //$9-10 feel like) What surprised me the most was that kimbap now costs 3,000 won, whereas when I left, it was only 1,000 won. At the start of my trip, I looked for restaurants with meals around 6,000 won, but later, when I found a place for 8,000 won, I thought it was cheap and went in.

One of the places I had always wanted to visit during my school days was Jeongdongjin in Donghae, and I finally fulfilled that dream! I never had an interest in overseas travel or dreamed of it. At the university, when people talked about trips to Europe, I couldn’t understand it. I thought it was a waste of money. My first flight was in 2009 when I went to Jeju Island, and my first overseas flight was to Canada for a working holiday in 2010. But when I arrived in Canada, I found it so much fun that I ended up embarking on a bicycle world tour. If I hadn’t gone on that working holiday to Canada, I wonder what I would be doing now.

The East Sea was incredibly clear and beautiful. I also visited Yangyang, which is currently seeing a surfing boom. The waves were calm, making it a great place for beginners to learn surfing.

As I crossed a bridge while riding my bike at sunset, the scenery was so stunning that I stopped for a moment. If I had to choose the most beautiful view I saw after returning to South Korea, it would be the mountain. No matter where I went, that mountain was visible. It wasn’t very tall, but it looked so comforting and gave me the feeling that it was protecting us.

I also tried wild camping in South Korea for the first time. I’m easily scared, so it took me about three years to try wild camping often during my overseas travels. Before that, I always asked people for permission to set up a tent in their front yard. Just because I had been traveling for a long time didn’t mean I wasn’t still fearful; I simply accepted that I had lots of fear.
However, South Korea felt much safer than other countries, so I occasionally set up my tent in more visible areas. Another place where I did this openly was Taiwan. In most other countries, I camped in hidden spots like forests that weren’t frequently visited by people.

When I arrived in Sokcho and was looking for a place to stay, I found a very clean-looking place with amazing views. To the left was a lake, and to the right was the sea. With a coupon, it cost around 50,000 won ($35), but during peak season, it seemed to go for over 200,000 won($141)

Later, when I was riding my bike on the Mishiyeong road heading to Seoraksan, I encountered a steep incline. The scenery of fall was beautiful, but I was so focused on biking that I forgot to take a single photo. The Mishiyeong road was more challenging to go down than to climb due to the steep gradient, so I had to be extremely cautious.

I then stayed at the Yongdae Natural Recreation Forest campground, which was much cheaper than private campgrounds, and the scenery was beautiful, so I was quite satisfied. The next day, I was able to extend my stay for another day. As I lay in my tent, watching the falling leaves, I became completely immersed in the magnificent natural surroundings of South Korea.
Another impressive thing about South Korean nature was the crystal-clear water. Seeing a clear stream made me feel as though my mind was being cleansed.

While leaving the campsite and heading toward Inje, I came across a flower festival. With the autumn foliage and blooming flowers together, I was completely immersed in the beauty of Korea’s nature.

By the roadside, there was a massive open space with several camping vehicles, so I pitched a tent and spent the night there. When I woke up in the morning, the scenery was so peaceful that it reminded me of my travels in New Zealand. Back then, I used to camp by lakes, sit at a table in the morning, and brew my own coffee just like this.

Afterward, I went to Chuncheon and had some dakgalbi (spicy stir-fried chicken), which was quite delicious. The next morning, as I passed through a park, it was full of energy — people biking, running, playing sports, or just out for a stroll. I saw a group practicing pungmulnori (traditional Korean folk music and dance), and I stopped my bike to watch. It was so moving. Since I had only recently returned to Korea, these traditional scenes touched me even more deeply.

Chuncheon’s scenery was so beautiful and full of life that I even thought about settling there after my travels. In fact, one of my goals during this bike trip in Korea is to find a good place to settle down. Since I love the outdoors, Chuncheon made it onto my list of candidates.

One of Chuncheon’s great advantages is its proximity to Seoul! So I went camping nearby with an acquaintance and two followers I had recently met.

On January 1, 2020, I quit drinking out of curiosity, and it turned out to be a good decision — I’ve now been sober for nearly four years. One concern I had before returning to Korea after 13 years was whether people would pressure me to drink. Surprisingly, it seems the drinking culture has changed. No one forces me to drink anymore. In fact, because I wasn’t drinking, others also chose not to. That night, everyone just had a single can of beer, but the vibe was great, and we stayed up chatting until late.

Late at night, I got up to use the bathroom and was stunned by the night sky. I took a photo of it. Back in my early twenties, when I lived in Korea, I used to love stargazing. I was part of an astronomy club and often took night sky photos. Interestingly, the friend who joined this camping trip was someone I met through an astronomy club back when I lived in Jeju. Taking pictures of the night sky again in Korea brought back memories of those days.
But the weather is getting colder — there was frost on my tent, and my hands were freezing while taking the photo.

The next day, I hit the road again and smelled something savory all along the way — it was perilla leaves! I could even spot farmers harvesting sesame by the roadside now and then. I really love perilla leaves, so the endless scent of them as I cycled was just delightful. To me, Korea’s autumn will always be remembered with the nostalgic smell of perilla. (I heard only Korean eat perilla leaves and foreigners don’t like eating it.)

Later, I arrived at a small rural village around sunset, but there wasn’t a good spot to pitch my tent. So I went to a nearby park. Sometimes before setting up tent, I like to sit down and observe the area — collecting “data,” so to speak, to decide whether it’s safe to sleep there. An elderly lady came by for her excercise, and we had a brief chat. When I asked if it was okay to camp there, she kindly said yes. She worried it might be quite cold and told me to sleep well, saying she’d see me the next day. If it had been a dangerous area, I’m sure she would’ve warned me. Since her only concern was the cold, I felt at ease and set up my tent for the night.

Around lunchtime the next day, I was hungry and spotted a some restaurant. To my surprise, a bowl of jajangmyeon was only 6,000 won ($4). What really caught my attention was a notice saying they offer free meals to seniors over 80 on the last Wednesday of every month. That piqued my curiosity, so I went in.
The portions were incredibly generous, and the food was delicious. While eating, I got to talk with the owner. She said she moved to this area in her 40s and received a lot of help from a seniors who were then in their 60s. After her husband passed away, she raised her children while running this restaurant that supported her kids through college, and now she even has grandchildren. She said she’s so grateful for this restaurant and now that she’s in her 60s — the age of the seniors who once helped her — she wanted to give back by offering free meals every month. But many seniors hesitate to come, thinking they might be a burden to the restaurant. That’s why she decided to put up a big sign — to let them know they are truly welcome.

Because Korea has four distinct seasons, each one comes with its own unique scenery. In autumn, the country becomes bustling with farmers harvesting their crops.

I tried avoid biking at night, but the steep inclines of Korean mountains meant I ended up halfway up a mountain just as the sun was setting. The mountains weren smooth, with trees growing like strands of hair, and above them hung a halfmoon. It was one of my favorite Korean pictures.

I later arrived in the city of Chungju and checked into a room. The cold weather meant the heating was on, and I was pleasantly shocked by the warmth radiating from the floor. Since most other countries heat the air, I had forgotten what it feels like to have warm feet. It was truly amazing.

While checking the map, I noticed that Lake Chungju looked beautiful, so I decided to go. It allowed me to fully enjoy Korea’s stunning autumn.

These traditional Korean landscapes (drying the persimmon) — I find them utterly charming.

That night, I pitched my tent at the edge of a road, but I was startled awake at dawn by the sound of loud footsteps. Probably it was a local out for a running.

As I packed up the tent, I noticed some chestnuts. Another sign of Korean autumn. It had been 13 years since I’d last seen chestnuts like that, and it brought back a lot of memories.

Last night, I managed to get in touch with an old high school friend whom I lost the contact. We used to eat meals together every day at high school and I had really hoped to see her again. When I found out she lived in Ochang-eup, I turned around and rode back to meet her.

When I finally saw her again, she had a child who was about to start elementary school. It really hit me how quickly time had passed. Meeting friends from my school days made me feel like I was the only one who had drifted outside the flow of time — like I had bounced off the Earth’s atmosphere and was floating through space. It made me want to return to everyday life again. She had recently gotten into making accessories and gifted me a handmade keychain she had crafted the night before.

Before arriving in each city, I usually do a bit of research. I found Ochang-eup to be quite fascinating. It was the location of Korea’s first planned science park, with plans dating back to 1987. Construction began in the 1990s, and the area was completed in 2005. My friend now works there as a chemical researcher. The average age of the town’s residents is 34, and some districts have a large population of people in their 20s, making it one of the youngest areas in Korea. When I visited my family home in Incheon, the average age felt noticeably higher. It was interesting to see how much this varies from city to city. As I traveled, I found it exciting to learn more about different regions of my own country.

By then, it had almost been two months since I’d returned to Korea, but I had to leave again for speaking engagements in Hong Kong and Macau.

To summarize my impressions of Korea after 13 years away:

*Things I didn’t like:
– Cars with overly dark window tints
– Sex-related businesses openly advertised on main streets

*Things I found hard to adjust to:
– Trash bags on the streets, lack of public trash cans, and complicated recycling rules

Let me talk briefly about the tinted windows.
In the early days of my travels in 2011, someone gave me tips on staying safe during a bike trip:
1. Watch which way a car’s tires are turned.
2. Make eye contact with the driver and use hand signals if needed.

But South Korea is the first country I’ve visited in 13 years where I can’t see the drivers. It was really frustrating. After doing some research, I found that the window tinting trend began around 2019, and now almost every new car comes with it.
According to a study, vehicles with 32% visible light transmission tinting have drivers whose response times are equivalent to having consumed 3–4 shots of soju (Korean alcohol) — about half a bottle. In effect, many Korean drivers could be considered to be operating in a state similar to that of light intoxication.
I have noticed that Korean driving etiquette has improved significantly since 2010. But accident statistics from the national statistics office suggest not much has changed. I think illegal window tinting might be a factor in this.

Korea is a country that continues to progress. Compared to the Korea I saw in 2010, I’ve seen a lot of improvement over the past 13 years. I believe even issues like illegal tinting will eventually be resolved.

(First picture said -> Girls (for pouring beer?) with Unlimited beer – 90,000 won ($63))
(Second Picture (big pink thing) said -> Having 20’s Helper (for dancing&singing together and pouring beer? at Karaoke)

One thing I really disliked and found hard to adapt to after returning to Korea was how sex-related businesses were openly advertised in areas where children walk around. The photos I took were from different cities, both near big shopping malls — locations commonly frequented by families. Maybe I didn’t notice this when I lived in Korea before because it felt so normal. But after 13 years, seeing it again was genuinely shocking.

Personally, I’m not opposed to legalizing the sex industry — I think it could be taxed and regulated for public health — but I strongly oppose it being located right in the middle of areas where children are present. Whether in big cities or rural towns, I kept seeing pink signs for teahouses and karaoke hostesses in central areas. I couldn’t understand why this was tolerated, and it made Korea’s streets feel very decadent. Perhaps it’s a lingering relic of Korea’s rapid transition from a developing to a developed country. Even new cities had these establishments — except for Sejong City, a planned administrative city. If one were raising children, a place like Sejong might be a better environment.

Another difficult adjustment was the trash on the streets. I kept wondering, “Why leave stinky garbage bags out in the open? Don’t animals get into them?” Wouldn’t it be better to have proper trash bins? If the issue is that people might use public bins to dispose of personal waste — since trash bags in Korea are sold per volume — then why not develop a system?

Here’s one idea I had: build large public trash bins that only open when a local resident scans a card. A camera could monitor usage, and the bins could be designed like the ones overseas that are picked up and emptied mechanically by garbage trucks. As someone interested in startups, this struck me as a pretty solid idea.

Although I’ve listed some negatives, there are also many positives:

* Things I liked:
– Wild camping felt relatively safe compared to many other countries
– Beautiful natural landscapes
– Lush forests and clean mountain streams
– Kind, polite, and warm-hearted people
– Free side dishes
– Delicious food
– Traditional floor heating (ondol)

The positives far outweighed the negatives, and this trip gave me a renewed belief that Korea is a country constantly moving forward.

Hong Kong/Macau – A Short Business Trip

During a previous trip to Hong Kong, I was invited by the Dean of The Hong Kong Polytechnic University (PolyU) to share my travel stories at the university. At the time, the dean mentioned that most students were on break, so he hoped to formally invite me again in the future. This time, he officially extended an invitation, and I flew to Hong Kong.

PolyU’s School of Hotel and Tourism Management is recognized as one of the world’s top institutions, largely thanks to the five-star Hotel ICON, which was built at the dean’s suggestion. Because the school is located inside the hotel, students are able to get hands-on experience and learn directly from the field. This unique setup has helped the school grow into one of the top-ranked hospitality programs globally. I was honored to stay at Hotel ICON and be invited to speak at such a prestigious institution.

The first item on my schedule after arriving was lunch with the dean at the restaurant on the top floor of Hotel ICON. The food was incredible — it practically melted in my mouth. I had briefly met the dean during my travels in Ecuador in 2012, and we reconnected during my trip to Hong Kong. I was deeply grateful and honored that this connection eventually led to a formal invitation to PolyU.

After that, I was kept busy with multiple lectures, seminars, and interviews with PhD researchers. I use the same cover page for all my PowerPoint presentations, but the content inside is tailored for each specific audience.

Since Hotel ICON is located downtown, I was able to take evening walks and enjoy the stunning night view of Hong Kong. With those breathtaking cityscapes, my time in Hong Kong came to an end.

The dean also introduced me to the University of Macau, which led to another speaking opportunity there.

I was truly grateful for the warm hospitality of the professors in Macau. The professor to my left in the photo was Korean, and she helped organize and guide me through the entire visit from beginning to end. The two professors beside her were from Macau — they kindly picked me up by car and even took me to the airport when I left. They also invited me to lunch, and the food was absolutely delicious.

Thanks to the Korean professor, I was introduced to a Korean pastor who had been living in Macau for a long time. Through him, I was able to gain a much deeper understanding of Macau. Before, I had only thought of Macau as a city of casinos, but the pastor taught me about its rich history and the lives of the locals. I was very thankful for that opportunity.

In the evening, I was invited to the pastor’s church, where I gave a talk and shared a meal together. Interestingly, it was my first time giving a lecture in Korean. I found it easier to express my emotions more deeply in my native language than in English, which made the experience even more meaningful. Although I don’t follow any particular religion, I was thankful for the invitation and had a truly memorable time.

Winter – A Glimpse into South Korea’s Economic Development in Gyeongsang-do

I boarded a bus to home after arriving at Incheon Airport from Hong Kong. I only had a light jacket, and during the transfer, the cold hit so hard I thought I might freeze to death. South Korea’s winter was truly terrifying.

Originally, I had planned to finish traveling around South Korea before winter began and then conclude my years-long world tour. But in two months, I had only explored Gangwon-do (Northeast). When I was in my third year of world travel, people would ask how long I planned to keep going, and I’d say two more years—yet I ended up traveling for a total of twelve. So in hindsight, thinking I could finish touring South Korea in two months was probably impossible from the start.

Due to the bitter cold, I borrowed my mother’s winter jacket and went to the Decathlon. The branch was closing down, so I was able to buy several discounted items. The product on the bottom right was a sleeping bag liner from a well-known brand, but it turned out to be unexpectedly uncomfortable and disappointing.

Before I left for Hong Kong, I had left my bicycle temporarily at HOPEDEN. The couple who runs Hop Eden had once traveled the world by bicycle as well. We had been in touch over online and were finally meeting in person for the first time. During their world travels, they had visited farms in various countries, and after their journey, they returned to South Korea and began operating a hop farm. They are true pioneers in this field in South Korea. Seeing people who have successfully settled down after long-term travel gives me deep respect and also courage.

The real bicycle journey began in the cold of winter. But once I arrived in Gyeongsang-do(Southeast), the weather felt milder than Incheon’s. During the daytime, I could manage with just a T-shirt and a jacket.

Hahoe Folk Village remains one of the highlights of my South Korea trip. I was deeply moved by the fact that I can experience the country’s ancient culture throughout an entire village. I strongly recommend Hahoe Village to anyone returning to South Korea after a long time abroad. If I have a foreign friend visiting Korea, this is the place I’d want to take them. The idea that people actually live in these traditional villages felt extraordinary. Some houses had been converted into guesthouses or restaurants, and I hope to one day spend a weekend in one of these traditional homes.

During the Hahoe Byeolsingut Mask Dance, I felt a deep connection to South Korean culture that moved me to tearful. I thought, “I’ve made it back alive and now I get to witness something like this.” They even had English subtitles displayed on a large screen for foreign visitors.

After exploring Hahoe Village, I began noticing traditional houses along the roadside, and my interest in hanok (Korean traditional house) architecture grew.

On a day when the forecast warned of temperatures dropping to -7°C(44F), I pitched a tent by the winter sea. There were many pine needles on the ground, which I used under the tent to block the cold seeping in.

The next morning, I saw South Koreans surfing despite the freezing weather—and many people were camping too. For me, camping was about survival, but these people were choosing to sleep outside in the dead of winter. It made me realize that South Korea is truly a nation of outdoor enthusiasts. I also remembered going camping with my family and relatives when I was kid. With mountains and rivers everywhere, it makes sense that people here love the outdoors. Are there many other countries where campgrounds fill up in winter like this? The passion of South Koreans is truly remarkable.

Later, I arrived in Pohang and saw POSCO (formerly Pohang Iron and Steel Company) in the distance. I wanted to tour the plant, but reservations had to be made a few days in advance, so I had to let that go for now. Instead, I looked up POSCO online and found the information fascinating. Established in 1968, POSCO helped drive South Korea’s industrialization in the mid-1970s. It feels like a place that played a crucial role in the nation’s rise to a developed country.

One interesting part of traveling around South Korea was the presence of traditional markets in each region. In most developed countries, it’s rare to find such vibrant traditional markets daily open, so I believe this is a well-preserved aspect of South Korean culture. The owner of the guesthouse I stayed at recommended Jukdo Market, saying it is one of the largest one—and indeed, it was fun to explore. They were selling gwamegi, a seasonal winter delicacy, but it was too large for me to eat alone. I tried a sample with chojang (spicy vinegar sauce) and seaweed—it was surprisingly enjoyable.

On the way to Gyeongju, I stopped by Yangdong Village. Just like Hahoe, it was amazing to see a village of traditional houses where people still live. Yangdong was smaller and quieter, with fewer tourists, which gave it a more tranquil atmosphere—perfect for a peaceful stroll. My dream of living in a traditional hanok house in the countryside on weekends and in an apartment in the city on weekdays grew stronger.

There was even a school in front of Yangdong Village, and its architecture beautifully blended the old and new.

When I arrived in Gyeongju, historic city, I was surprised to find ancient tombs right by the supermarket. I had seen a few of these around the city and realized the saying “dig anywhere in Gyeongju and you’ll find artifacts” is no exaggeration.

I bought a GoPro 4 in 2015 and used it for about four years before losing it, so I bought a new GoPro 8. The GoPro 8 had great image stabilization, which I really liked, but I was disappointed that it no longer had the feature to take continuous photos while recording video.
After using the GoPro 8 for another four years, the power button on the side became worn out and hard to press. The newer model had a front-facing screen, which looked convenient, and I heard the battery lasted longer in winter, so I decided to buy the GoPro 12. In a way, I’ve ended up upgrading my GoPro every four years.
However, apart from the front screen, I didn’t notice a huge improvement in quality. I wonder if by the time GoPro 20 comes out, there will be some new features that will make me want to upgrade again.

While staying in a guesthouse, I shared a room with a German traveler, and we explored Gyeongju together. When I asked how she came to visit Korea, she said she became interested after watching K-pop and K-dramas.
I also met a Dutch traveler at a guesthouse near Hahoe Folk Village, who said she was traveling around Korea for three whole months. She, too, said she came because of her interest in K-pop.
During this trip, I realized that most of the European travelers I met in Korean guesthouses were drawn to Korea because of K-pop and K-dramas. It made me feel the real power of culture.
This reminded me of a famous quote by Baekbeom Kim Gu, one of the most revered Korean independence activists. He once said, “What I truly desire is not the power or wealth of my country, but its beauty—an abundant cultural legacy that shines like a light in the world.”
He dreamed of a unified Korea built on cultural richness and peace. Tragically, he was assassinated in 1949.
As I met these travelers, I felt the meaning of his words come to life.

In 2024, the number of tourists visiting Korea reportedly reached 16 million and continues to grow. However, I noticed a serious lack of English support for foreigners, and many struggled with things like ticket purchases due to phone number verification requirements.
The biggest problem, though, was the lack of affordable and comfortable accommodations for travelers. As a solo female traveler, I found this very inconvenient. Most Korean accommodations are either outdated motels with creepy places that focus on short-term hourly stays. Some places in Seoul didn’t even allow check-in until 9 PM. Even Korean business travelers sometimes have no choice but to stay in motels, which seems problematic.
Because I’m interested in startups, I came up with an idea: what if we could remodel Korea’s old, run-down motels using government support, and turn them into affordable, clean chain hotels where anyone—foreigners, locals, men, women, young, and old—could stay comfortably?
Even many Korean hotels look outdated, like visiting grandmother’s house in the countryside. What if we built clean, modern chain hotels across the country instead with reasonable price?
I also want to develop user-friendly map apps that foreigners can easily use and other apps to help them navigate life in Korea. There are over 20 million people if you combine tourists and foreign residents—that’s a massive potential user base.|
I’m full of ideas, but it’s frustrating that I don’t yet have the capacity to bring them to life.

The most beautiful sight in Gyeongju was Woljeong Bridge. I had seen the observatory in many pictures, so it was familiar and comforting to see it in person.

After leaving Gyeongju, I biked to Bulguksa Temple. In the autumn, the temple looked absolutely beautiful and peaceful.
As I was calmly walking around, a woman—perhaps a staff member or volunteer—was trying to convince a visitor to make a donation and offer a prayer. When the visitor replied that they already attended a different temple, the woman said, “So do we,” in a rather pushy way.
I had expected visiting a temple would bring me peace, but it left me wondering if we humans can ever truly escape the worldly ways. It felt a bit disheartening.

I left my bike behind and took a bus up to Seokguram Grotto. Photography wasn’t allowed inside, so I only took pictures of the outside.
When I entered the grotto and saw the Buddha’s expression, I felt like I might cry. The Buddha’s face looked so calm and serene. (Strangely, the photos online don’t capture the same feeling, so I’ll skip including one.)
I’ve met many people while traveling the world, but I had never seen such a peaceful expression before. It made me feel emotional, thinking that I might live my whole life without achieving that kind of inner peace—hurting and getting hurt in the chaos of the world.

After visiting Seokguram, I headed to Ulsan. As expected of an industrial city, I saw many large trucks on the way in.
A professor in Ulsan had invited me, so I stayed at their place for a few days. He introduced me to his older brother, writer Kim Ha-gi, and a local union vice-chairman.
Thanks to them, I got to tour Ulsan’s industrial sites. The vice-chairman, a native of Ulsan, explained a lot about the city’s industrial background.

I also visited the tent protest site at Ulsan College of Science.
The cleaning staff had been fired in 2007, but after a long protest, they received a written agreement from the president promising job succession. However, in 2014, they were fired again for demanding minimum wage.
The school claimed the cleaning staff were hired through a subcontractor and thus not their responsibility. But the workers insisted the university president had made a promise in 2007 and should honor it.
Because this fight involves a core issue of labor and capital, neither side is willing to back down, and the struggle has continued for over a decade.
It was the first time I looked this deeply into subcontractor vs. main contractor issues, and I realized how complicated the problem really is.
The video I recorded included perspectives from the writer, the union leader, and the professor explaining in the middle, allowing me to view the issue from various angles.

On our way back to downtown Ulsan, we stopped for a snack and noticed banner in many different languages.
“Move to a different occupation without authorization (including accomplices) must be apprehended.”
Returning to Korea after 13 years, I realized the labor structure had changed. Hiring workers has become much easier due to the influx of foreign labor, so it felt like working conditions may have actually deteriorated.
Although Korea has recently become a developed nation, many middle-aged and elderly Koreans still need jobs to survive due to the lack of a sufficient pension system. Ironically, it was this very generation that worked tirelessly through Korea’s industrialization and laid the groundwork for its economic rise. Yet now, in an era of prosperity, they are being left behind.
Many of the jobs they once held—or still could do—especially in factories, construction, and cleaning, are now filled by strong young foreign workers.
The idea that Koreans avoid dirty, hard, and dangerous jobs is partially not true. If the working environment were better, many would be eager to take on these jobs. For example, the application rate for full-time positions at Hyundai’s factory is 500:1, and the application rate for government-employed cleaning workers is 50:1. These figures demonstrate that when conditions improve, Korean workers are willing to take on these roles.
But now, with an influx of foreign workers filling these positions, there seems to be little chance to improve labor conditions. Employers no longer have the incentive to make changes because the labor force is constantly replenished by foreign workers who are less likely to demand better conditions.
I wonder how Jeon Tae-il would view this situation. He was Korea’s most iconic labor activist, who died at the age of 22 while protesting inhumane working conditions. His sacrifice in 1970 sparked major reforms and helped lay the foundation for labor rights in Korea.

Is this the only path to maintaining a developed country? Isn’t there a better, more humane alternative?

During my trip in Korea, I researched cities before entering. The frequently mentioned administration was that of President Park Chung-hee.
POSCO (Pohang Iron and Steel Company), Shipyards, Ulsan’s industrial complex, KAIST(Most Famous Institute for Science and Technology in South Korea) were all initiated or expanded under his government.
After decades of Japanese colonial exploitation, national division, and the Korean War, Korea was a struggling developing country. The country’s transformation into a developed nation was largely driven by the growth of heavy industry in the 1970s, which was planned and executed during Park Chung-hee’s presidency.
President Yoon Suk-yeol, who tried to declare martial law but failed recently, cut R&D budgets. I naturally began to compare it to Park’s policy direction.
I can’t agree with the martial laws and suppression of democracy during the Park administration, but I can’t deny the economic outcomes.
Someone said during our tour of Ulsan’s industrial complex: “Park grew the pie, and the democratic governments helped more people get a slice.”
Had the Park regime continued, Korea might have ended up like Russia or China—where the government is wealthy, but not enough middle-class.
But thanks to democratization, the distribution structure improved, and many people were able to live middle-class lives.
From an economic standpoint, Korean politics can’t be explained in simple black-and-white terms. It seems more like a complex process along a gray spectrum.

Afterward, I made my way to Busan and arrived in Haeundae. I was stunned by how impressively developed it was—my jaw literally dropped. With a population of three million, Busan is Korea’s second-largest city. But I realized I had some preconceived notions about it, probably shaped by how it’s often portrayed in movies—as a gritty backdrop filled with gangsters lurking in back alleys. I found myself reflecting on that and feeling a bit ashamed.

Leaving Haeundae, I headed to Gwangalli, which, personally, I liked even more. Unlike Seoul, Busan was a bit warmwer as it is in the south. With nearby mountains and surfable waves not too far off, I began to think that maybe living in Busan wouldn’t be so bad after all.

Back in 2015, I had run a half-marathon in Hungary and absolutely loved the atmosphere. It was then that I first heard about the world’s major marathons, and I dreamed of running one someday. Recently, I learned that registration for the Berlin Marathon was open. I applied, not really expecting to get in—but to my surprise, I got selected! The marathon is scheduled for September 29th, 2024. I was thrilled and excited, but also overwhelmed. Would I have enough money to go to Berlin? Where would I stay? Would I need to finish my cycling trip first to properly train? My mind was swirling with questions. Still, the joy of being selected took over, and I rushed outside in the freezing weather to go for a run—without any warm-up. That turned out to be a big mistake. I ended up injuring my back and had to stop training after just one day. I’ll have to wait for warmer days before I try again.

When I visited Jagalchi Market in Busan, I was blown away by how massive it was. I’d never seen such a large indoor seafood market anywhere in the world. On the second floor, there were many restaurants, and when I asked if it was okay to eat alone, they welcomed me and even offered a discount. (There are many side dishes in this kind of place so they might deny to sell for only one person as they can’t earn much money then.) The food was delicious, and the view of the sea was beautiful. I noticed a few solo foreign tourists dining there as well. After my meal, I stepped outside to find the outdoor market was just as huge. Jagalchi Market is definitely a place I’d love to revisit if I come back to Busan.

The southern part of Korea was warm enough that I could ride my bike wearing just a short-sleeve shirt and a light jacket during the day. But at night, it got quite chilly, and my tent was covered in frost.

Winter snacks in Korea are fantastic. If I had to pick one of the best things about Korean winter, it would be the joy of buying freshly made bungeoppang (fish-shaped pastries) and hotteok (sweet pancakes) on the street. I really love the four seasons in Korea.

I found a cheap Airbnb and did my grocery shopping at a large local supermarket in the area. I was able to find some reasonably priced items. In Europe or Australia, I enjoyed shopping at big chains like Woolworths or Aldi, which were available in nearly every neighborhood. But in Korea, that kind of supermarket culture doesn’t really exist. In fact, large stores here seem to sell things at higher prices.
Later, I learned that “Hanaro Mart” serves a similar role to Aldi in Korea, but they aren’t not at every neighborhood.

If I had to rank Korea’s affordable supermarkets based on my experience, here’s how it would go:
1. Daiso (No fresh food, but very cheap since the Korean branch bought rights from the Japanese company and now sells directly.)
2. Hanaro Mart
3. Coupang (Online shopping mall/selling fresh food)
4. Big-box stores (Homeplus, Emart, Lotte Mart)

I ended up spending New Year’s Eve at a small guest house at Geoje island. We all had dinner together and did a countdown, and watch the sunrise. My goal for 2024: to finish my world tour!

Before leaving Geoje, I saw several heavy industry complexes scattered around. During all my travels, I’d never seen large-scale industrial sites up close this frequently. Moments like these made me understand, with my own eyes, how South Korea became a developed country.

I wanted to visit the National Garden in Suncheon, but unfortunately, it was closed for the winter. While wandering the neighborhood instead, I stumbled upon a huge, modern pet culture center—something I’d never seen even abroad.

Suncheonman Wetland had such a tranquil atmosphere that I found myself wanting to return someday.

Eventually, I arrived in Yeosu while listening to the famous song “Yeosu Night Sea.” I thought about exploring the nearby islands and heading all the way to Mokpo, but it seemed like it would take too long.

It reminded me of when I was in Latin America, debating whether to push all the way to Ushuaia at the southern tip of Argentina. I worried I’d get too exhausted and want to end the trip there. So instead, I flew from São Paulo in Brazil to Africa.

Sometimes, I just reach a moment when I say, “This is far enough. Time to move on to somewhere new.”
And now, I think I’ve reached that moment again.
It’s time to head to Jeju Island.

Spring – Returning to the Starting Point of My World Tour

Jeju Island holds many special memories for me. I once paused my university transfer studies and worked as an office employee at a commercial recording studio. It was a fun workplace where I regularly saw famous celebrities. Back in 2009, the company offered an incredibly generous 9 days vacation, which was quite revolutionary at the time. Inspired by a bicycle travel blog I had read, I decided to rent a bike in Jeju and travel the island for 9 days.
Eventually, I loved Jeju so much that I moved there and lived for about nine months until I left for my working holiday in Canada. It was the first time in my life I had ever lived away from home and been truly independent.
Jeju was the place that introduced me to adventure. I had truly loved and missed this island—and now, I had returned.

I had a special connection with Jeju Island. During my trip to the U.S. in 2011, I met a Korean friend who was living in Jeju Island. As soon as I arrived in Jeju, I had a hangover soup with that friend. When I passed Aewol, my friend offered me a place to stay, saying that there was an empty room at their house, so I stayed there for two to three weeks. During that time, I visited a coworking space (share office for freelancers) in Jeju city to catch up on some video work.
Another meaningful encounter was meeting Minkyuri, a world cycling traveler. We had only communicated online, but we met in person when I came to Jeju. He had finished cycling the world and had come down to Jeju Island to farm. While staying at my friend’s house, I visited his cabbage field, where I got to harvest cabbage and enjoy the refreshing morning air. Later, as the weather warmed up, I also visited his tangerine farm.

January in Jeju was quite depressing. It rained almost every day. However, as February arrived, I could feel the spring approaching. On the way to the airport to visit the home for Seollal (Lunar New Year), I felt a refreshing mood as I saw the flowers blooming beautifully.

As the weather warmed up, I started to explore Jeju Island.

One good thing about Jeju is that there are free public campgrounds around the beaches and in the middle of the island. Some campsites required online reservations, but most beachside campsites allowed by walk in. On the mainland, free campgrounds are almost non-existent, so I did often wild camping, but in Jeju, it was good to camp easily.

While cycling, if I came across an oreum (a small volcanic cone), I would always climb it. I really loved the warm landscape where Hallasan embraces the smaller oreums.

One day, while cycling, someone called out to me, and it turned out to be Dadong, a world traveler I had communicated with on a blog a long time ago. Dadong and Minkyuri had met during their travels and had known each other for a long time. Interestingly, the Airbnb host I stayed with the previous night was also friends with Dadong. In the end, we all gathered together and grilled samgyeopsal (pork belly). In the photo, Dadong is on the left, and Minkyuri’s family is on the right.

Jeju, a special island that hosts many world travelers.

On a rainy day, after checking into the hotel, I went out for dinner. The restaurant was unique that it only served jajangmyeon (noodles in black bean paste sauce). The prices were quite cheap, and the owner offered unlimited refills of rice. He was very friendly, and while chatting, I learned about a group that picks up marine debris. Curious, I decided to extend my stay by a day and join them.

The group “Dipdabongging” provided us with sacks, gloves, and grabbers. The trash we collected ranged from small items like paper cups, plastic water bottles from China, and buoys discarded from ships. As I was picking up the trash, I realized that styrofoam is one of the worst inventions made by humans. It breaks easily, and the fragments flow into corners, eventually getting eaten by fish, which we then consume. It’s terrifying to think about. Some states in the U.S. have already banned styrofoam, and Korea is planning to ban the use of styrofoam buoys in a few years.
Looking at the way trash flows from China to Korea, from Korea to Japan, and from Japan to the U.S., it became clear to me that the issue of marine debris is not the responsibility of just one country. It made me realize that we need an international agreement to tackle this issue together.

While cycling past Altteureu Airfield, which has a painful colonization history, and the Seotareum Massacre site related to the Jeju 4.3 incident, I took the time to study the situation once again.

When I lived on Jeju in 2010, I stayed in Eastern part. So to tour around western part this time was more interesting.

Near Sanbangsan, there was a coworking space, so I went to check it out. It turned out to be quite good, so I ended up staying there for two months to catch up on my video work. During my travels, I had worked in coworking spaces in places like Thailand, Malaysia, Australia, and South Korea.
The most special coworking space for me was in Jeju, There were people from various professions, including graphic designers, game planners, programmers, and employees from large corporations and startups. Every day, I had lunch with these people and had discussions, which allowed me to hear diverse perspectives and deep thoughts, providing me with motivation. Some of the conversations left such a deep impression on me and I wrote them on the note. I still open those notes from time to time.
One interesting thing about the coworking space in Jeju was that no one asked about age. In some guesthouses in South Korea, people ask the age as soon as meeting, which was a bit uncomfortable, but here, no one asked for over two months. Actually this is very universal that no matter Asian or Western, people often ask about the age or ask indirect questions to figure it out. Of course, in the coworking space, after talking to someone for a while, I could guess whether they were in their 20s, 30s, or 40s, but it was remarkable that no one asked the age here. This experience made me realize that Korea is sometimes extreme—either very conservative or extremely open-minded. So, I realized that where I go in Korea matters a lot. If I were given the opportunity to work in such an environment like here, settling in Korea might be even better than abroad.

It was also really nice to run together with them every week. Thanks to that, I was able to properly start preparing for the Berlin Marathon.

For two and a half months in the coworking space, I went there every single day without skipping. I arrived at 9 a.m. and returned to my accommodation around 10 p.m. or 11 p.m. Video editing takes a long time, and there was a lot of work to catch up on, so I had to work late every day. There was one day I missed, and that was April 3rd, because I visited the Jeju 4.3 Peace Park.

The Jeju 4.3 Peace Park taught me about the Jeju 4.3 Incident, and here is a summary of what I learned:

*Background:
– The Korean Peninsula was under Japanese colonial rule from 1910 to 1945.
– After Japan surrendered in 1945 due to the atomic bomb, Korea unexpectedly gained independence.
– The Soviet Union and the United States decided to divide the peninsula for administration.
– The Japanese flag was taken down from Korean government buildings, and the U.S. flag was raised.
– The U.S. military government hired high-ranking Japanese officials and pro-Japanese collaborators to form a government and police force to govern Korea.
– The lack of proper purge of pro-Japanese collaborators led to rising dissatisfaction.

*The Incident:
– On March 1, 1947, during a 3.1 Independence Movement event in Jeju, a child was injured by police. Police ignored it and it led to a anger response from the crowd. The police opened fire, killing six people.
– Enraged Jeju citizens went on strike, and about 95% of the population participated.
– The U.S. military government began to suppress the people of Jeju, labeling them as communist.
– From 1948, the police arrested and tortured the people of Jeju indiscriminately.
– On April 3, 1948, 300 members of the North Korean Workers’ Party armed themselves and attacked the police, worsening the situation.
– On May 10, 1948, with U.S. support, Syngman Rhee held a South Korean-only election, which Jeju opposed.
– As a result, Jeju was the only place in South Korea where the election was declared invalid.
– Angered by this, the U.S. military sent warships to blockade Jeju and launched a massacre operation under the name “clean-up operation.”
– The far-right group “Seobuk Youth Corps” was mobilized to brutally massacre the people of Jeju.
– Between 1947 and 1954, around 15,000 people were officially reported killed. Including unreported victims, the number is estimated to be around 30,000, with some foreign reports estimating up to 80,000.
– This is the largest civilian massacre in modern Korean history, but it remained largely unknown to the public for a long time.
– Victims lived in silence, fearing the “communist” stigma until the 1990s.
– In 1999, an investigation into the incident began, and in 2003, the Korean government officially apologized, with the Jeju 4.3 Peace Park completed in 2008.
– The U.S. has yet to offer an official apology.

During my world travels, I have voted seven times, and each time I am grateful to be able to participate.

Election List During World Travel:

-2012 (Mexico): 19th National Assembly Election Application
– 2012 (Costa Rica): 19th National Assembly Election
– 2012 (Paraguay): 18th Presidential Election
– 2016 (Hungary): 20th National Assembly Election
– 2017 (Vietnam): 19th Presidential Election
– 2020 (Australia): 21st National Assembly Election
– 2022 (Australia): 20th Presidential Election
– 2024 (Jeju, South Korea): 22nd National Assembly Election

I found an affordable monthly rental just a 5-minute bike ride from the shared office. Before I knew it, green leaves had sprouted atop Sanbangsan Mountain, which sometimes wears a hat of clouds. During my first nine-month stay in Jeju, I lived near Seongsan Ilchulbong and Old Jeju. This time, I’m leaving with special memories of the Sagye Coast and Sanbangsan.

Jeju Island offers stunning scenery wherever I go.

While I was in Seogwipo, I visited the house where the artist Lee Jung-seop had lived with his family for two years. The room was extremly small. At the Lee Jung-seop Gallery, I explored his artworks and learned more about his life. It seemed as though he had been sacrificed amid the turbulent waves of modern Korean history.
It was only after his death that he came to be celebrated as one of Korea’s most iconic modern painters.

While I was in Seogwipo, I hiked to Mount Halla’s top. Mount Halla is the highest mountain in South Korea. I was reminded of my visit to Mount Paektu, the highest mountain in North Korea which I can climb on Chinese border side, and a deep emotion welled up inside me. Toward the end of the trip, the song I found myself listening to often was Sohyang’s ‘Arirang Alone’

One part of the lyrics especially resonated with me:

“From Baekdu to Halla, if we set out together by boat,
perhaps our hearts will become one.
Even if the journey gets hard,
let’s take a break if we need to—
but let’s hold hands,
and go together.”

On the way to Seongsan Ilchulbong, I witnessed the most beautiful sunset I had ever seen in Korea. I left my bicycle and luggage at a guesthouse there and headed to Seoul for a few days. I had been invited to speak as a guest speaker at APacCHRIE 2024, an international academic conference held at Yonsei University, thanks to a recommendation from the dean of the School of Hotel and Tourism Management at The Hong Kong Polytechnic University.

I took an early morning flight and, as soon as I arrived, I left my luggage at the airport and went to Seoul to rent a suit at a place called ‘Open Closet.’ Open Closet is a non-profit organization that shares suits, and their prices were way cheaper than other places. Once again, I marveled at how there seems to be everything in Seoul. Moreover, without even asking, they noticed the pants were a bit long and offered to alter them for free, doing the adjustment in just 5 minutes.
Some of the suits are donated, and they even include letters from the donors. The letters was unexpectedly touching. I hope I’ll have the chance to donate a suit here someday.

The suit bag was quite heavy, but I hurried to COEX for an important lunch meeting. The person I was meeting had said it was just a simple lunch and not to have high expectations, but I wished this would be an opportunity to talk about my opnion and get some chances. However, when we met, it seemed like it was indeed just a simple lunch as the person had said, which left me a bit disappointed. Still, I was grateful for this opportunity. Just the fact that my small voice was heard by someone was enough to make me thankful.
Afterward, I visited Nike and Adidas to buy marathon shoes, but due to my wide feet, none of the shoes felt comfortable. I then went to a specialty running shoe store, where I received advice and purchased Saucony shoes. They were decent, and the pain I had experienced on the sides of my feet while running in regular Nike shoes disappeared. I picked up my luggage from the airport and went to the hotel nearby. It was a hectic day.

I was happy to reunite with the dean and professors I had met at Hong Kong Polytechnic University and the University of Macau. This was my first international conference, and it was quite fascinating. I found myself wondering if I had been born into an academic family, would I have devoted myself to academia by now? My upbringing was more free-spirited, so I guess my curiosity was channeled into traveling the world.

After finishing the two-day international conference, I needed to head straight back to Jeju. To test my new shoes, I went for a run along the Han River that morning. Afterward, I left my luggage at the hotel and met Im Mi-ryeo, the CEO of DMZ Forest, whom I had been in touch with via email recently. DMZ Forest operates an agricultural and cultural space in the civilian-controlled area(DMZ). The CEO shared how she started DMZ Forest, and hearing about the path she had paved, walking a road less traveled, gave me a great deal of motivation. Though our schedules were tight, we parted after a brief but meaningful meeting, hoping for another chance to connect. I quickly returned to the hotel, picked up my luggage, and headed to the airport.

Although my time in Seoul was hectic, it was full of invaluable experiences.

Arriving at the airport in Jeju, I got on a bus to Seongsan Ilchulbong. Compared to Seoul, Jeju seemed so small. It made me reflect on how I had spent several months here, and I even found myself missing the bustling city of Seoul. Yet, by the very next day, I had adapted to the peaceful, slower pace of Jeju, and I couldn’t understand how I had managed the chaos of Seoul before. I guess the saying ‘Humans are creatures of adaptation’ really applies here.

I later ran along the beautiful beaches on the eastern side of Jeju

There was a nice free campsite in Gimnyeong, and the scenery at sunset was truly stunning

The next morning after wild camping, I woke up to see haenyeo (female divers) working off in the distance. Later, a British friend recommended the book The Island of Sea Women, written by an American author. The book covers the stories of the haenyeo. Although it was that an outsider had written it, the details were surprisingly thorough. As a tourist, I had never approached a haenyeo to not bother them. So I had no idea about their lives. But after reading the book, I learned so much about the haenyeo.
The book includes the 4.3 Incident, and since it was written by an American author, it seems to depict the event without going into detail about the U.S. military administration. It almost makes it seem like Koreans were killing each other for no reason, which is a bit disappointing. However, the fact that the U.S. military administration is mentioned makes it somewhat better than what other foreign talked.
Still, the way the author portrays the lives of the haenyeo is well done, and I would recommend the book to anyone interested in Jeju

After visiting the coastline, I ventured inland to the middle of Jeju.

There were surprisingly many places to camp, just like in Australia, and I enjoyed the similar vibe.

One of my followers was on a cycling trip around Jeju, so we decided to cycle for a few days together in the middle of the island. On my way to meet her, I took a look at the Kakao headquarters building.

We found a nice camping spot, where we spent two nights, sharing stories about our travels.

The weather started to warm up. I felt again “This is far enough. Time to move on to somewhere new.”

Before wrapping up my Jeju journey, I wanted to share some pictures of the food I had during my stay.

Image 1: Upon arriving in Jeju, my friend from Aewol and I had Haejang-guk (a soup with innards), which was incredibly delicious on that cold, rainy day.
Image 2: In Moseulpo, I found a famous restaurant serving Bomal Kalguksu (sea snail noodle soup). The broth was rich, and there was no fishy taste, making it very enjoyable.
Image 3: I had Gogi Guksu (meat noodle soup) at a local restaurant while cycling, and it was, of course, delicious.
Image 4: At a restaurant in Jeju city, I tried Okdom Mutsuk (a whole fish stew), which was my first time eating a whole fish in a white broth. Fried fish were chewy and good.

1. While cycling, I stopped for some Mom Guk (pork soup), but I wished the portion had been a bit larger.”
2. After climbing an oreum with my friend from Aewol, we had Galchi Jorim (braised cutlassfish), which was very tasty and had a generous portion.”
3. I had Deulkkae Memil Kalguksu (perilla seed buckwheat noodle soup) while working at Minggyuri’s tangerine farm. It was my first time trying it, and it was alright.
4. I also had a hearty meal at a small village restaurant while cycling, with a large serving for only 9,000 KRW ($6)”

Summer – The End of the World Travel Begins to Come into Sight

I took a ferry from Jeju to Wando. The area around Wando was nice, and I wanted to stay another day, but there were only creepy motels, so I had no choice but to leave. After traveling in South Korea for a long time, I no longer wanted to stay in Korean motels. I’ve been thinking about building a chain of mid-range hotels across the country, but I don’t think it will happen. Is there anyone who could make this happen?

After passing Wando, I was riding along the coast when I came across a peaceful-looking spot, so I set up my tent. The local boat owner came out, and we had a short conversation. The area seemed very safe, so I was able to sleep comfortably for the night.

The picture with the sign of the southernmost area of the Korean peninsula.

While I was in Jeju, a follower asked me, “How are you going to end your world trip?” I jokingly responded, “How about ending it by visiting real estate agents to find the place to settle down?” But that question kept lingering in my mind. I continued to think about how to end my world journey. Then, I contacted CEO Lim Mi-rye from DMZ Forest, whom I met recently, and asked if I could end the trip at the DMZ Forest after organizing the DMZ Peace Bicycle Tour. She kindly agreed.
I had started my trip on September 1st, 2011, so I decided to end it on the same date, September 1st. Finally, the end of the journey began to take shape.

I arrived in a rural village just as the sun was setting, but there was no place to camp. Then I discovered a village hall with a pavilion, so I asked the locals for permission and set up my tent for the night.

On the bridge leading to Jindo, I was amazed by the fast currents. I had never seen such fast water, and I learned that the Ulleung Strait (Myeongnyang Strait) has the fifth fastest current in the world. After watching the movie The Battle of Myeongnyang, I thought it was overly dramatic, but seeing the current in person made me realize how accurately the film reflected reality.

The most serene, quiet, and peaceful places I experienced during my trip around South Korea were the beaches around Wando and the coastline around Jindo. The scenery was beautiful, and there weren’t many cars, making it a great place for a cycling trip. There were also plenty of pavilions to rest at, which was a big plus.

I could also see Korea’s heavy industry later.

Jae-hee, who had cycled with me in Jeju, invited me to visit the Namwon Galchi Village. On the way to the village, I had a unique tasting a duck soup in Gwangju, which is the fifth-largest city in South Korea. The taste was unique.

When I arrived at the entrance of the Galchi Village, I was impressed by how clean and well-organized the village.

Galchi Village is thriving is that there are spaces where people can gather. I stayed in the village for almost a week, and people were constantly coming and going at the workshop. The elderly people appreciated that the young people visiting brought new energy to the village.

The last picture is of me trying an excavator. I enjoyed it so much that I thought about getting a certification for it in the future.

During my time in Galchi Village, we watched some performance and afterward, we went to a restaurant. I tried hong-o, famous stinky food (fermented skate). I had expected it to have a extremly strong smell, but when I ate it wrapped in kimchi, it wasn’t so bad. If you can eat durian, you could manage hong-o.

Jae-hee, who had cycled with me in Jeju, brought her car and we drove up to Jirisan to enjoy the beautiful scenery.

After saying goodbye to the people in Galchi Village, I headed up to Jeonju. The Hanok Village in Jeonju had several places where I could relax. As a tourist, I decided to try the famous Jeonju bibimbap in Jeonju. It was quite delicious!

While looking at the map, I came across an interesting place. Saemangeum, which I constantly heard about during my school days! I found the place where the Jamboree was held on the way to Saemangeum.

The Saemangeum reclamation project, which I studied diligently in school, has still not been completed. The plan started in 1971, the project was announced in 1987, and construction began in 1991. It has been under construction for 33 years. The original completion date was set for 2020, but it was later changed to 2040, and then again to 2050, continuously delayed. It is said to be the largest reclamation project since 5000 years of Korean history, but it might be the most failed project in Korean history. Every government has been unable to give up on it, constantly pouring money into it. I am curious whether this project will ever turn into success. I wonder what the current state of Jeollado would have been like if this money had been invested in other projects.

Jeolla Province, Southwest, ranks low in major economic indicators such as GDP per capita, disposable income, and employment rate. The region’s economy is heavily dependent on agriculture, and since agriculture remains at a third-world level, the economic indicators are lower.
If agriculture could be innovatively transformed, Jeolla’s economy would have the opportunity to rise to the top ranks nationwide.
If I imagine it, an innovative hub could be established in Jeolla, linking agricultural startups with national industries, focusing on technological development and building a startup city in the region.
Additionally, developing new cities around the area and offering clean residential environments preferred by the younger generation could solve the issue of people flocking to Seoul.
This would also be a significant help in promoting balanced regional development.

Upon arriving in Daejeon, I went to KAIST(Most Famous Institute for Science and Technology in South Korea) and went for a run. Unlike other universities in Korea, the campus was flat, which was very nice. The campus was also quite beautiful.

I had to visit Galchi Village for the talk. Towards the end of my travels, it became common to leave my bike in one place and go on another location.
I needed to take out the necessary items and then put everything back once I returned, which was actually a bit of work when I did this often.

The teacher at the middle school in Galchi Village invited me to his school, and I also had the opportunity to give a lecture at the cultural space at the village.

Afterwards, I went back to Daejeon, packed my things, and headed to Sejong City, a planned administrative city. I was amazed at how sophisticated the city looked. One thing that I found lacking in Korean cities was the uniform apartment complexes. They build multiple identical apartments side by side, and this is not visually appealing. Foreigners are often shocked when they see it, and it’s almost dystopian in appearance. However, Sejong City didn’t have this issue and felt like a city with a forward-looking future.

The weather was getting unbearably hot. I went out at 7 a.m., and my face was already drenched in sweat. I realized that Korean summers are no joke. I once experienced the strange phenomenon of feeling cold while riding my bike, even though I was sweating continuously. It was a dangerous moment, like my brain was overloaded. That’s why I started buying ion drinks from convenience stores every day.

After posting the DMZ Peace Bicycle Trip notice, I could see that my travels were coming to an end. The sunsets along the road would surely be something I would miss.

When I was 5 years old, I lived in Songtan (now Pyeongtaek) for about 3–4 years. The area behind our apartment was a rural neighborhood, and it was hard to believe that the world’s largest semiconductor factory was now located there. Although I only lived in Songtan for a short period, I used to play in the mountains and fields every day. I think this is where my desire for adventure and curiosity was nurtured, which later awakened as I started traveling the world. The place that once felt like my home now had grown so much, and I felt proud of its development. The area around the semiconductor plant had many bikes parked, which made it quite busy.

While cycling, I saw a familiar sight and stopped immediately. The apartment I had once lived in was still there! However, it looked a bit run-down, possibly due to poor maintenance. The complex was packed with cars. I remembered climbing on some looking weird building everyday for playing. Now a fence had been installed to prevent kids from climbing. Anyway I was glad to see that it was still there.

As I entered the metropolitan area, I enjoyed seeing the various new cities.

Finally, I returned to my hometown, Manan in Anyang, after 13 years. After living in Songtan, I had stayed in Anyang until I left for my world travels. When I first arrived back in South Korea, I felt indifferent, and since my family had moved to Incheon, I didn’t feel like I had returned home. However, when I entered Manan , I felt for the first time that I had safely returned home.

Manan was close to Anyang 1st Street, which was once the most bustling area in Anyang. However, when I got there, I was surprised to see it had aged. I heard that when new cities are built nearby, the older neighborhoods become slums, and I felt that Manan had suffered from this. Although there are well-developed areas in Anyang, Manan still felt like home to me, and it left me with a sense of regret.

The neighborhood in front of the apartment I lived in had remained unchanged, but it looked quite worn down.

I then went to Songdo in Incheon for a run, and I found that the city was as impressive as Sejong City. However, there weren’t many people walking on the streets, which made the city feel eerily empty. In old cities, there are lots of people but the streets can be dirty, while in new cities, the streets are clean but lack the vibrancy of people, making them feel like ghost towns. It would be great if there was a balance between the two.

Finally, I cycled near Seoul. The accommodation prices in Seoul were too expensive, so I booked a place in the nearby area. I had purchased a flight ticket for September 5th to Berlin for the Berlin Marathon, which would take place on September 29th. My bicycle journey was scheduled to end on September 1st. Although I wanted to stay longer in Korea, the hot weather was preventing me from running, so I planned to go to Berlin first to practice running.
With little time left in Korea, I spent busy days meeting acquaintances and friends. Every time I visited Seoul, I marveled at the city. I don’t think many Koreans who have lived in Seoul fully understand why foreigners come to visit. I, however, understood this very well. I want to start various startups related to help foreigner’s visit, but I’m not sure how to begin.

I finally entered Seoul by bike! The roads weren’t as complicated as I expected.

Near Gwanghwamun, I saw several protests taking place.

During my world travels, I realized that not many countries have created their own unique alphabet like Korea. This made me develop a deep respect for King Sejong who made Korean alphabet in 1443, and he became the most admired historical figure for me in Korea.

The type of neighborhood I would like to live in Korea is one where there is a bike lane next to the road, and I actually discovered this in certain parts of Seoul! Seoul definitely feels different. There was even a big sign saying “Bicycle Priority Road.”

Despite how great Seoul was, ironically, I didn’t stay in Seoul during this trip to Korea. I don’t like motels, and hotels are too expensive, so I ended up staying on the outskirts every time.
Over the past year of traveling around Korea, I’ve been constantly thinking about where to live, and I think I’ll probably settle in the metropolitan area around Seoul. Since I grew up in the capital region and worked and socialized in Seoul, I can’t ignore the diversity that Seoul offers. If a startup hub were to really emerge in Jeolla, as a dream, I’d love to go there and try to make my dreams come true, but I don’t think that will happen.
Before the DMZ Peace Bicycle Tour takes place, I need to finish my personal world trip, so I was rushing to Gangneung.

Heat advisories were issued daily, but when I dipped my feet in the cold valley stream, the scorching summer heat felt refreshing.

At the supermarket, the staff offered me drinks and candy as a form of encouragement. The warmth of the people in Gangwon Province, Northeast, was truly heartwarming. The first place I visited in Korea after 13 years was Gangwon Province, and I was very grateful for the kindness of the people there.

When I climbed up the mountain in Pyeongchang, which hosted the 2018 Winter Olympic Games, the weather was a bit cooler.

I planned to stay one night at the accommodation and hurry to Gangneung the next day, but my bicycle got a flat tire, so I had to repair it. Fortunately, I arrived in Gangneung by night, but when I checked the ferry schedule to Ulleungdo for a trip to Dokdo, I found that the ferry wasn’t running the next day. This was on August 21st. I planned to go to Ulleungdo and see Dokdo on August 22nd, return to Gangneung on August 24th, and then ride my bicycle to Goseong on August 25th, where I had to start the DMZ Peace Bicycle Tour on August 26th. In other words, I only had two full days to visit Dokdo, from August 22nd to 24th, but one of those days was wasted.

The ferry to Ulleungdo was operating normally on August 23rd, and I arrived in Ulleungdo in the afternoon.
I took a bus around the island and realized how mountainous it was, which made me glad that I hadn’t brought my bike. The scenery was beautiful, and the atmosphere of the village felt very Korean.
Out of all the places I had visited during my travels across Korea, I would say that Ulleungdo felt the most authentically Korean. It was so far from the mainland, and this made it feel like Korea’s true essence was preserved there.

Finally, on the morning of August 24th, I was going to see Dokdo, the island located at the easternmost point of South Korea. I was anxious because I had to head straight to Ulleungdo for the DMZ Peace Bicycle event after visiting Dokdo, so I was feeling uneasy. Whether the docking at Dokdo would be successful or not was something I wouldn’t know until we got closer to Dokdo and the broadcast came out.

The moment the docking at Dokdo was successful, everyone applauded, and I was also incredibly happy. Dokdo’s natural scenery was stunning, with many small islands surrounding it. What impressed me most about Dokdo was when the security officers lined up and saluted as the boat approached. It seems that what touches people the most is, after all, other people. If the schedule hadn’t included a trip to Dokdo, I could have prepared for the DMZ Peace Bicycle event a bit more leisurely. However, because of the trip to Dokdo, I had to push myself, cycling every day in the extreme heat and preparing for the event, barely getting 4 to 5 hours of sleep a day. But when the security officers saluted and greeted us, it felt like all the struggles of the past week were rewarded. I am truly grateful to the Dokdo security officers who are guarding the island.

I had set a goal that if I succeeded in my world bicycle journey, I would return by land. However, when that plan failed and things became difficult, I found great comfort in listening to Sohyang’s ‘Arirang Alone’

‘Far away in the East Sea, a lonely island,
The fierce wind will blow again today,
With a small face, facing the wind,
Dokdo, did you sleep well last night?’

Now, the near last piece of my travel puzzle in Korea, visiting Dokdo, is in place. I’m taking a ferry back to Gangneung for the DMZ Peace Bicycle Tour event, the real final piece of my world bicycle journey.